Noštromo

Run by chef-owner Zlatko Marinović, this is one of the best restaurants in Dalmatia, let alone Split. Traditional recipes are given a contemporary twist  –  look out for the ray-fish stew and batter-fried sea anenome. Amid the tasteful artwork, locals treat each other or celebrate birthdays over a fish platter for two, as fresh as you'll find anywhere – it's right next to the fish market). Make sure you come with enough cash – no credit cards are taken.