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This restaurant is celebrating Hong Kong’s rice heritage with a rice-centric menu

Diners will have the chance to taste locally farmed grains from Lantau Island

Written by
Genevieve Pang
Ando Yi O rice
Photograph: Courtesy Andō
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“No rice, no life” goes the comical phrase, but for many people of Asian descent, the sentiment can be taken rather seriously at mealtimes. Rice is a staple in Chinese culture, not only as steamed or fried grains, but also in the form of rice noodles, rice rolls, dumplings, and even congee and cakes. One restaurant in Hong Kong is recognising the important role that rice plays in local culinary culture and giving it the laurels it is due.

One-Michelin-starred Andō, the innovative East-West restaurant from Argentine chef-owner Agustin Balbi, is introducing a limited-time tasting menu that’s all about this prized grain, with a dedicated focus on local Hong Kong rice farm Yi O Rice. Available from January 19 to March, the ‘Rice’ launch will be the first edition of a new dining series at the restaurant that highlights a single ingredient, around which a special menu will be designed.

Ando Yi O rice
Photograph: Courtesy Andō

Exploring rice as the central ingredient of a dish, Andō will present the unique features of Yi O Rice’s acclaimed grains through meticulous technique and boundless creativity. Guests will taste steamed, puffed, fermented, creamed, and simmered forms of rice in creations such as Andō’s signature arroz caldoso, a brothy rice soup; crispy rice spheres with crab, rice paper rolls, prawn, and coriander; pigeon with puffed rice and red cabbage; somen with roasted rice, clams dashi, and yuzu; and inventive desserts like the sake kasu ice cream with coconut and dulce du leche and rice-inspired mignardises.

Honouring rice as an ingredient is not just limited to the food. Carlito Chiu, general manager and wine director of Andō, who was recognised as the Michelin Guide Sommelier of the Year, has curated a rice-centric drinks pairing to complement the dishes. Sparkling sake from Kumazawa Brewery, Shaoxing wine from Dongqu, Korean takju, and junmai sake from Wakaze are just a few of the pairings on offer.

Ando Yi O rice
Photograph: Courtesy Andō

Hong Kong has come a long way since its agriculture, aquaculture, and fishing days, so it might be surprising to learn that there are still about a dozen or so local rice paddies in operation. Yi O village on Lantau Island is home to one of the largest remaining rice farms in the city, producing sun-dried and milled long-grain rice with only two harvests per year, once in June and once in December. It’s been said that the secret to Yi O Rice’s success is its distinct aroma and texture, making it a highly prized choice for chefs in the know.

Andō’s ‘Rice’ eight-course tasting menu is priced at $1,888 per person. Book here.

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