Hotel Irada

I’m seated in a dimly lit cellar, ringed by 130 French oak barrels, the air thick with the aroma of ageing wood and the tang of fermenting wine. Laid out in front of me is a platter of brie, crackers, and olives. Bottles of Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, and Cabernet are brought out one after the other, and I’m carefully guided through their colour and fragrance, notes that swing from fruity and floral to peppery and spicy. But I’m not wine-tasting in Bordeaux. I’m actually in infamous businessman Vijay Mallya's former private cellar, tucked inside a 66-acre wine estate just two hours from Pune.

It's quite an arrival too. Drive two hours past Pune towards Baramati, turn right, and you're on a stretch of green land, freshly rinsed by rain, with nothing in sight but grazing cows and goats. Drive a little further, and a turret comes into view. Then, a grand fountain and manicured lawns lead up to a theatrical manor with filigreed balconies, lion sculptures, and rolling vineyards. Go on, squint all you want. It’s still rural Maharashtra.

This was just one of Mr Mallya's many summer homes, I'm told. When he wanted a whiff of crisp air and a taste of some countryside wine, he'd fly in by chopper, landing straight on the helipad, which is still very much part of the property today. The original structure was built in 2008 by renowned architect Navzer Irani. It now belongs to the 31-year-old Kanpur-based hotelier Yash Malhotra, who, with design firm Humming Tree, has lovingly restored the space to its original glory as Hotel Irada.

What are the rooms like at Irada?

The 59-key hotel is stylish and Marriott's first Design Hotel in India. As soon as you enter, a life-size, custom-made Jaipur Rugs carpet sets the scene of what’s in store – leisurely days spent playing padel, lounging by the pool, and swirling and sipping estate wine. The reminder that you're in wine country follows you everywhere: oak barrels double as tables and wine bottles as wall decor, and burgundy shows up as a mainstay, from poolside umbrellas to towels. Some rooms even have a standalone bathtub in wine-red.

The rooms and suites span four categories – 32 in the main manor and the rest in a villa by the vineyards – each with its own distinct look, from wrought-iron chandeliers and warm oak panelling to beds with sage-green leather accents. They're decorated with artwork Malhotra sourced from around the world, from Le Puces in Paris to Method Gallery in Mumbai.

What are the drinks and food like at Irada?

Since Irada is in the middle of nowhere, it holds you captive for its food and drink. The good thing is that you won't want to explore beyond. At the all-day diner Irada Pool Club, the hotel skips the lavish buffet breakfast for a small spread of croissants, Danishes, and flavoured yoghurts, alongside a menu of eggs to order (from shakshuka to Florentine), mushroom stroganoff, tofu akuri, even idli and dosa. Snackish post-swim bites range from misal pav crostini and wild mushroom croquettes to club sandwiches, while heartier mains span the globe, from Asian curries to galouti kebabs and rogan josh.

The crown jewel, though, is Rosso, the Italian restaurant at Irada. The space leans clubby and Art Deco, with barley-twist columns, a green marble bar, playful upholstery, and terrazzo underfoot. The wine country thread continues with a wall-mounted wine barrel and harvest murals. Wines also find their way into its dishes here—leathery slices of Merlot-poached beetroot carpaccio come topped with feta and candied walnuts, and salmon luxuriates in caper-Riesling sauce. The Forest Morel Tagliatelle, served on a bed of mushroom ragu and crowned with a morel stuffed with cream cheese, is the showstopper of our meal.

Bar manager Akash Verma tips us off on the pairing wines, a roster of 32, ranging from three estate varieties to labels from Italy, France, South Africa, and Australia. And if you're not in the mood for wine, there's a fun selection of cocktails too. Rogue Estate is a heady mix of betel leaf-infused bourbon, gulkand Campari, and fennel vermouth, while First Bloom combines fresh pomegranate juice, rose-infused gin, and hibiscus cordial. Beyond the bar, the coffee runs just as strong. Subko handles the programme here, serving it up wherever you happen to be, at the restaurants, poolside, or the lawns, where the good folks can also lay out an Enid Blyton-esque picnic for you. 

What are the facilities like at Irada?

In the basement of Hotel Irada is a state-of-the-art wine production facility, from fermentation tanks to a bottling line imported from Italy. 

‘Something larger was brewing at the estate. My guess is a Kingfisher wine label. I don't see why else Mr Mallya would have built a capacity to produce 170,000 cases otherwise,’ says Australian estate manager Craig Wedge as he tours me around. Today, it gives us a peek into the process, from berries to bottle. 

The vineyard never stopped producing, even after Mallya moved on. Four Seasons wine, still made here today, kept flowing as the estate changed hands, eventually landing with a group of partners that includes Diageo-owned Grover Zampa. There are also plans in the works to create a dedicated label for Hotel Irada.

Besides the wine tour, there's plenty to keep you active, including leisurely walks around the forest with the chance of spotting chinkaras, cycling along the estate, or yoga overlooking the lush lawns. The spa, Nyasa Wellbeing, sits at the edge of the property, with five treatment rooms, a steam room, and a sauna. My massage therapist, Nana, who has trained at one of India’s best wellness resorts, undid every knot in my body. After my therapy, I gaze out at the wilderness from the Jacuzzi and wonder why we need to hop on an eight-hour flight for a taste of vineyard life.

Getting there: Hotel Irada is a 2-hour drive from Pune and a 5-hour drive from Mumbai.