Nakimushi

Nakimushi’s premise is solid: bring together two chefs who’ve smashed successful pop-ups and have them deliver superior Japanese cuisine under the same roof. What’s not to like! 

First up is Robin Kosuge, whose Robin’s Ramen residency was known for rowdy, broth-spattered evenings that resembled all-nighters at Berghain as much as they did a ramenya. Then there’s Yuji Shimokawa Kelly, previously of Dinings SW3, and founder of the roaming Urchin, which specialised in high-end Japanese bistro fare. Both pop-ups took place at Holland Park’s Supermarket of Dreams, which is, handily, run by the same group as Nakimushi, as well as nearby Eel Sushi Bar and Dorian. Talk about keeping it in the family. 

At Nakimushi - which translates as ‘crybaby’ - ramen is available at ever-so-slightly-too-cosy communal tables in a small ground-floor room, while more general Japanese cookery is found on the marginally less frenetic but still cramped first floor (cue plenty of table Tetris every time anyone needs to pop to the bathroom). Compactness of the venue aside, someone’s done a solid job of giving this slender Victorian townhouse a Tokyo-tastic makeover, with atmospheric pale wood panelling, framed prints and all manner of Japanophilia on the walls. Though we’re still not quite sure what inspired them to place a prep kitchen and fish larder basically in the bathroom, only separated by a single pane of glass, which really doesn’t do anything to stop the smell or the feeling you’re being watched.  

The egg ranks at the very summit of the jammy scale

If your heart is set on ramen, you’ll need to dine downstairs, where duck, chicken, pork and pistachio matcha versions are on offer. We’re in the upstairs robata where you can only score one ramen; a lobster and sobrassada offering which Kosuge perfected during his Robin’s Ramen stint. It’s quite a small bowl (handy if you want to order lots of other things, but frustrating if you assumed you’d get a nice big bowl of soup for £24), but the skinny noodles are just-the-right-side-of al dente, the creamy seafood paitan broth both winningly oceanic and seductively silky, and the egg ranks at the very summit of the jammy scale. 

With a menu that purposefully swerves sushi, we love the tiny buckwheat taco topped with sardine and a fermented strawberry kanzuri, while a dinky offal and shisito pepper skewer brings to mind a goodie from a Green Lanes grillhouse (no bad thing). But we’re not so sure about the corn tempura, which comes with a superfluous nori wrapper and tastes like nutritional bubble wrap. 

Better is tangy chicken nanban, the holy nexus where KFC meets fish’n’chips, with fried chicken drizzled in potent lobster tartar and black vinegar. It might have been our favourite dish of the night, until the arrival of some melt-in-the-mouth Iberico pork loin, which comes with a huge smudge of red almond miso, presumably to stop you mistaking the sweet meat for pudding. 

When things calm down a bit, Nakimushi will truly be a great place to eat. 

The vibe A busy and buzzy Notting Hill townhouse. 

The food Ramen is around a tenner (unless it’s the lobster), starters are pretty reasonable and mid-sized dishes around £15. NOt bad for the area. 

The drink Japanese-styled classics, a whole high ball selection and some interesting wine choices. 

Time Out tip If it’s just a fast and casual bowl of ramen you’re after, then book yourself into the ground floor restaurant. Upstairs is a little more pricey but with a wider menu of hot Japanese food.