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Frank “Mr. Cook” Mazloumi, wife Nahid and their daughters work together to deliver comfort food from the family’s native Tehran. Denj is popular for sandwiches, but they have a strong kebab program devoted to à la carte sheep organs, which are all prepared with impeccable attention to detail. Start with steak-like hearts and rosy kidneys if you aren’t comfortable with innards. From there, work your way up to pungent livers, creamy brains and silky domballan, aka Rocky Mountain oysters (aka testicles). This menu might seem daunting, but Mr. Cook knows just how to tend to lamb organs over an open flame. The meats all seep delectable sheep juices onto pull-apart flatbread.
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