Vesti at Maydan Market

Through December 31, the focaccia sandwich slingers at Vesti are running an all-you-can-eat, Italian-ish Eating Menu from an eight-seat counter at Maydan Market in West Adams. Next Food Network Star alums Adam Gertler and Shane Lyons are behind it, and it helps that Lyons, a former cast member of Nickelodeon's All That, is a natural entertainer. A meal here mirrors a night at the Groundlings: the chefs riff, the guests play along, and you leave feeling better than when you arrived. There are, however, a few ground rules if you're going to partake in what might just be the best-tasting, best-priced degustation (sorry, “Eating Menu”) in L.A. ($70 per person, gratuity not required). 

Rule number one: No one is chef. This is a non-hierarchical kitchen, so don't you dare call Adam or Shane anything other than their first names. Rule number two: don't call the Eating Menu a tasting menu. There's no set number of courses, and no two experiences (even back-to-back seatings) are the same. Instead, there are three seatings a night, at 4pm, 6pm and 8pm, and the kitchen keeps firing courses until the clock runs out or you wave the white napkin, whichever comes first. Not full by the end? Say the word and they'll fix that. Getting full? Grab a "memory box" and take home as much as you want. Rule number three: keep your preferences to yourself (dietary restrictions are, of course, welcome). Not a fan of something, like, in my case, blue cheese? You'll still get the dish, and you can choose to engage or not. If you engage and still don't like it, they'll bring you something else.

Out of about 10 courses (I lost count with all the theatrics), blue cheese was the single offense in my book. Dishes I loved included a bright persimmon, fennel and granita starter delivering the bite and freshness of a crudo; Butcher Bar Wagyu tartare with a kick; Japanese sweet potatoes in a pool of zhoug-meets-salsa-macha; impeccable Calabrian chile Korean-style wings; 'nduja and mustard green lasagna; chicken stuffed with farce (not a comedy); and Wagyu flank steak with gremolata. On a special night, you might get a Wagyu tomahawk, and consider yourself lucky if whiskey caramel bread pudding is the dessert on deck. Vesti doesn't pour alcohol, but you can order drinks from the other Maydan vendors on your phone and have them brought to your seat. Wine is the move here, obvi. I highly recommend a glass of Camins 2 Dreams cab franc from wife-and-wife winemakers Mireia Taribó and Tara Gomez—a member of the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians, Gomez is the first Native American winemaker to be recognized by the California State Legislature. And mind rule number four: socialize with someone other than your dining companion. Or else… you might get called up on stage (metaphorically speaking).

Time Out tip: Can't snag one of the eight seats? Walk up to the counter for a sandwich or pizza instead.