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If you need a reason to mix up your restaurant routine, we’ve got you. On a laneway just off Flinders Lane, a new Japanese restaurant – ÉN – has opened its doors, bringing Japan’s Kappo dining (a sort-of seasonal tasting menu experience) to the CBD. Founded by Paawan Engineer, of Mill Place Merchants and Cuff, alongside chefs Takuro Abe and Shiro Fukushima, ÉN takes its name from a Japanese word that can describe connection, bonds and fate. The idea carries through to the restaurant’s approach, which aims to bring diners closer to the craft behind each dish.
For the uninitiated, Kappo translates loosely to ‘to cut and to cook’. Rather than specialising in one discipline, the way specialised sushi or teppanyaki restaurants do, Kappo draws on the full breadth of Japanese cooking – from grilling and simmering to steaming and frying. At ÉN, this takes shape through a creative line-up of dishes showcasing premium Aussie and Japanese produce.
The menu is led by Abe, who brings more than 25 years of experience across Japanese and Australian kitchens, and Fukushima, whose career spans more than three decades. Both chefs have worked at some of Melbourne’s most well-established Japanese dining spots, including Warabi at W Melbourne.
Sushi fans, rejoice: sushi is a particular focus – with the kitchen drawing on Edomae, the traditional Tokyo style that uses techniques such as zuke (marinating fish to deepen its flavour) and shime (curing fish with salt and vinegar). The rice is seasoned with akazu, a red vinegar made from aged sake lees (or kasu) that lends it a deeper, more savoury flavour.
Among the menu highlights are Zuke Maguro Nigiri, featuring marinated tuna, and Namerou, a rustic Japanese fish tartare mixed with miso, ginger and herbs. Elsewhere, expect Dashi-Maki Tamago, a delicate rolled omelette made with house-prepared stock, Saikyo Miso Black Cod and Kagoshima A5 Wagyu Steak cooked over hibachi. There’s also a selection of chef-selected sashimi and nigiri, seafood chawanmushi and Japanese-inspired desserts round out the offering.
The drinks list has been developed with certified sake sommelier Kana Aoyama, with around 10 to 12 sakes in rotation and seasonal pairings available alongside set menus.
ÉN’s two-level interior, designed by Victor Isobe, has a pared-back aesthetic – with black timber, concrete and gunmetal accents. Upstairs, a chef’s counter places the kitchen in full view, and a concrete wall features a karesansui, the dry landscape patterns associated with traditional Japanese gardens.
On the entertainment front, expect listening bar vibes on the lower level inspired by Japan’s record-bar culture, and monthly sake dinners in the works.
ÉN is now open at Bligh Place, just off Flinders Lane in Melbourne’s CBD. You can learn more and book over here.