Walrus Rodeo

When Walrus Rodeo opened in 2022, we were confused. The follow-up to one of our most beloved restaurants, Boia De, came with the same tough reservations, trendy crowds and high prices. It served plenty of quirky design details and funky wines. But the whimsy felt forced and the food, though imaginative, lacked cohesion. Over time, the rodeo has evolved—and so has our appreciation of this gleefully undefinable Miami restaurant in a Buena Vista strip plaza. 

The vibe: Where once we wondered what occasion might call for a reservation at Walrus Rodeo, now it’s captured a vibe that suits most—from birthday celebrations to rainy date nights or even an early pizza dinner with a couple of kids in tow. It’s a festive yet unfussy atmosphere with seating options that have expanded to include a few large leather banquettes, which help divide a space that previously felt like a glorified diner. 

The food: In a sea of “refined coastal Italian” and “Riviera-inspired Mediterranean,” Walrus Rodeo is decisively down-to-earth. The menu’s through-line is its creativity and the wood-fired oven that serves as the open kitchen’s primary energy source. Yes, there’s pizza and lasagna (both delicious). But there’s also a vibrant and tender escarole salad, flecked with cherries and cashews, in a creamy, salty bagna cauda dressing. And the charred cabbage, a gorgeous purple hunk glazed in a tangy, umami black garlic gastrique and served in a pool of ranch hollandaise. 

The veg dishes are a highlight, but so are more familiar menu items, like the texturally stunning roasted oysters, bone marrow with parsley salsa verde, and Rodeo Za with anchovies, spicy tomatoes and maple brown butter. The Cantabrian anchovies and cultured butter might be our favorite bread service in all of Miami. The menu is brief, and so are its descriptions, but the servers know their stuff, so definitely utilize them when assembling your order.

The drink: Walrus Rodeo has also made strides behind the bar, now upgraded with a full liquor license. Cocktails are playful riffs on classics, as in the El Charro “margarita” made with mezcal, mango shrub and cilantro, or the Day Walker “savory manhattan” with garlic rye, tomato sherry and vermouth. There are still plenty of low- and zero-proof drinks, including several NA beer and cocktail options, while wines remain funky and old-world.

Time Out tip: Miami’s dining scene increasingly feels like one big AI-generated response to the prompt “exclusive luxury restaurant.” Walrus Rodeo shines as the complete opposite. Enjoy the most human of experiences with a seat at the chef’s counter or bar. Watch your meal as it’s prepared over open flames by a few nimble hands working in unison, or ask about your bartender’s favorite drink, or that thing on the menu you’d never heard of. The bar is also where you’ll score happy hour prices on Sundays and Tuesday through Thursday, while Mondays feature discounted drinks and $12 pies all night long.

Editor's note: Time Out originally reviewed this restaurant in December 2022.