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Before avocado toast became a punchline, Café Gitane was serving it to downtown New York. Now, the café that made lingering over lunch look like a legitimate profession has a new address—and something stronger than coffee.
The French-Moroccan institution has reopened at 162 East Broadway, bringing its couscous and formidable people-watching pedigree to Chinatown. Brunch is set to join the proceedings this weekend.
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Founder Luc Lévy, who opened the original on Mott Street in 1994, is joined by restaurateur Nima Garos and longtime customer Norman Reedus. (Yes, the Walking Dead star has graduated from regular to partner.)
Over three decades, Gitane attracted David Bowie, Helena Christensen, Michelle Williams, and Spike Jonze, among others; Leonardo DiCaprio was also photographed having lunch there. Its appeal extended well beyond celebs, though. For neighborhood regulars, it offered the very appealing prospect of sitting around with friends and seeing who wandered in.
The new space packs that history into 1,200 square feet, with 33 seats, including seven at the bar. The map of Morocco is back, Jimi Hendrix still overlooks the room and the servers’ signature little green dresses have survived the relocation. Returning kitchen staff include employees who have worked with Lévy for 15 years.
On the plate, the famous avocado toast keeps things straightforward: lemon juice, olive oil and chili flakes on seven-grain bread. The café describes the Moroccan couscous, a Bowie favorite, as coming with vegetables, golden raisins, pine nuts, hummus and mint, with chicken or merguez available as additions. Also returning are spicy beef meatball tagine, hachis Parmentier and hearts of palm salad. New options include lamb ragu linguini, skirt steak and an $18 burger.
The biggest change is behind the bar: Gitane is introducing its first full liquor program, serving drinks like the "Sheltering Sky," which combines vodka, Aperol and Moroccan spices, plus the "Jardin Secret," made with mezcal, pineapple syrup, grapefruit and lime. Moroccan mint tea is also available if your afternoon calls for fewer plot developments.
The café is walk-in only and closed Mondays, with lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Reservations aren’t an option, so consider any wait a chance to work on your air of downtown indifference.