Adda Indian Canteen was something of a revelation when it debuted in 2018; its refusal to compromise when it came to the bold side of the cuisine laid the groundwork for chef Chintan Pandya’s and Roni Mazumdar’s brand of cooking, and certainly influenced the name of their restaurant group: Unapologetically Indian. And yet, the original that kicked off a slew of award-winning restaurants (Dhamaka and Semma) came to a close earlier this May. But before we had time to write a eulogy, the closure came with a caveat: they would be back sooner than later. And they made good on that promise this April, moving operations to a larger space in the East Village. Alive yet again with a refreshed sense of self, Adda is continuing its long-standing ethos of presenting the cuisine in “its full, honest form.”
Backdropped by graffiti-covered newspapers and magazines on the walls—which should look familiar, as the wallpaper was lifted from the old restaurant—Adda’s top hits return, including kebabs, soft housemade paneer and the combo of a silky egg custard and steamed goat brain in the bheja masala. But Adda’s evolution continues with lamb cooked every which way, with excellently seasoned minced meat pressed between layers of flatbread and skewered (Roti Aur Boti), and shreddy hunks bubbling in cast irons made even more unctuous with dollops of lamb butter. Chutneys? You can dip them and drink them in the same dinner, as tart tamarind, smoky mango mezcal and earthy onion brine martinis come together as a trio. And as Westernized as butter chicken has become, the team has embraced it in the Adda way, debuting a tableside “Butter Chicken Experience,” where poultry is cooked with butter and even smoked with the woodchips of your choosing.