Ferdinando’s Focacceria

History covers the walls in the form of black-and-white photographs of Italy. Although it’s much more than a focacceria, the family-run Sicilian restaurant keeps that part of the name because it has been there from the beginning, 100 years ago. Francesco Buffa (Ferdinando was his father-in-law) takes a hands-on approach, canning the sardines that are used in the house specialty, pasta con sarde, and making both the fluffy panelli (deep-fried chickpea-flour pancakes) and piping-hot potato croquettes. The supple braciole—a tenderized veal roll stuffed with bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, garlic and parsley—will make you glad some things don’t change.