Somssi

New York's MacDougal Street is an exciting little stroll. The one-way street that cuts through Greenwich Village swells with NYU students and the Comedy Cellar crowd in one block, all of whom spill out and take up precious sidewalk space to eat double-fried Belgian fries and falafel. Yet in the same strip of dives and bars, you'll find some of the city's most iconic spots, like Minetta Tavern and Dante. Somssi hopes to join the latter, and so far it's off to a great start for those looking for a middle ground in the neighborhood.

Somssi (pronounced somh-shi) is partnered with Ellia and JP Park's NA:EUN Hospitality group, the same team behind the two Michelin-starred, fine-dining Korean restaurant Atomix and its older, more affordable sister, Atoboy. And that's because Ahris Kim used to oversee operations for both. Now her new restaurant falls under the shared umbrella. And you can tell, as only four months old, Somssi feels lived in already, her stroke of hospitality evident, as the feminine bistro plays on the classic model, infusing subtle and bold Asian flavors, all in one go.

The vibe: In the former Acru space, a short-lived Michelin-recommended tasting menu from the same team, Somssi has a romantic edge. Vintage sconces hang from exposed brick, and lace curtains, some tattered, line the restaurant, handmade by Kim's best friend's mother. The thread of hospitality is strong: the staff makes you feel like you are visiting an old friend, even if it's your first time, all but ready to rattle off suggestions as they shake up your bag of fries with your choice of gamtae furikake or kimchi cheese dust.

The food: Somssi doesn't strictly adhere to one type of cuisine, picking up a little of this and a little of that. Some flavors are subtle and restrained, others full-throated. The most daring leaps pay off, such as the meaty mutton chops, heavily coated in crunchy cumin spice, sitting in a pool of jus. The ox tongue, nearly blackened by the grill, is still lightly sweet, glazed with tare throughout the cooking process. Those who may not be "into" offal should yield, if only for a few bites, as it melts like the fatty bit of a ribeye. The molehill of wasabi you are encouraged to dot on as you eat is less sinus-inducing than you think—giving the palate a break from the richness.

This isn't to say the subtle hints aren't good. The fennel salad is a refreshing break with candied pops of lemon and salty kumquats as is the linguine al ragú with kimchi, cooked down but still retaining that fermented funk. But at Somssi the bolder it goes, the better. The study of potato in the potato, potato, potato, for instance, does prepare the mighty spud three ways with a greedy dollop of caviar. But the miso is undetectable in the hollandaise and adds little to the dish. The desserts were also a bit understated: a scoop of White Rabbit ice cream, inspired by the Chinese milk candy of the same name, with little bits of popcorn that add texture but not much else. I also wanted more of the grape granita, since Atoboy's version ranks in the life-changing category, made memorable with spiced cinnamon and a hidden layer of burrata cheese. Overall, the harder that Somssi leans into such flavors, the better it is. 

The drink: The mini cocktail trend is here, and at Somssi, we are here for it. Little nips come in the form of boozy martinis and passionfruit-forward, daiquiri-like drinks such as the Cherchez la Femme. They also offer full-sized cocktails, plenty of wines ranging from $14 to $24, and three sakes.

Time Out tip: You don't need to peel the shells off the charred, blackened Gulf shrimp; you'd lose most of the smoky flavor if you do. It turns rather tender after all, eating more like a soft-shell crab. Be sure to swipe it through the sauce underneath, as the puffed corn underneath gives it a good crunch.