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This colorful taqueria is named for the Nahuatl (an Aztecan language) word meaning “tortilla.” Sip a creamy, cinnamon-dusted horchata while a cook in the open kitchen works to the sound of Mexican rock & roll, stuffing flatbread rounds with plump shrimp and delicate, chopped tilapia, and garnishing them with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice. A list of special fillings—funky, crackling tripe; shreds of gelatinous, stick-to-your-teeth beef head—seriously ups the authenticity quotient.