Ron is based in Chiang Mai, where he writes and photographs stories for publications like the BBC, CNN, National Geographic and Nikkei Asia. Recently he published 'Teak Lord', a historical novel about a teak boom in North Thailand in the 19th century. He loves wandering through the forest looking for unusual patterns in nature to photograph, as well as burying his nose in dusty tomes about Thailand’s evocative past.

Ron Emmons

Ron Emmons

Thailand Writer

Articles (1)

Under the spell of the kingdom’s tallest stupa

Under the spell of the kingdom’s tallest stupa

At 395 feet tall (that’s 120.45 metres for us metric lot), Phra Pathom Chedi is the tallest stupa in Thailand – and possibly the world. It’s also one of the oldest and is often quoted as being where Buddhism first took root in Thailand. Even topping the world-famous Shwedagon Pagoda in neighbouring Myanmar, Phra Pathom Chedi (‘pathom’ means ‘first’ and ‘chedi’ means ‘stupa’) in Nakhon Pathom is just an hour’s ride west of Bangkok. Often overlooked on the usual tourist trail (although a popular waypoint on the way to Kanchanaburi), we think it’s worth more attention.  So much so, we visited once again to bring you the latest updates on the tallest, and arguably most beautiful, chedi in all of Thailand. Oh, and take a tip: go by train to appreciate the view of the colossal structure as it looms into view along the five-minute walk from the station. Photograph: Ron EmmonsPhra Pathom Chedi What is Phra Pathom Chedi? The stupa has a long history, but the short version goes as follows. Around 2,300 years ago, emissaries from Emperor Ashoka in India arrive in Nakhon Pathom with a relic of the Buddha, and the pious locals construct a dome-shaped stupa to enshrine it.  About 1,300 years later, the stupa is rebuilt with a Khmer-style prang (corncob-shaped spire), after which it falls into disrepair. In 1853, King Mongkut (Rama IV) initiates the Sri Lankan-style, bell-shaped structure enclosing the older stupas that we see today, and the enormous edifice is completed in 1870. All up t