Unless you're scouting for a statement furniture piece at Tan Boon Liat Building, there's really no reason to be at Havelock. The quiet neighbourhood is smack dab in the middle of other buzzy locales like Robertson Quay, Tiong Bahru, Great World City, and is even on the fringe of the CBD. Recently, however, this cosy bistro beside an unassuming hotel in the area has managed to capture our hearts.
Wildcard, by the same team behind cult-favourite joints like Maxi Coffee Bar and cocktail bar No Sleep Club, is a casual restaurant and wine bar in Furama RiverFront. It's slightly off the beaten path, though the new Havelock MRT Station makes it much easier to get to. The venue turns two this year with a new chef on board and a refreshed menu.
First impressions: the interiors are chic, stylish and for lack of a better phrase, photo-worthy. Think living room vibes with sofas, a gorgeous dedicated vinyl corner, colourful posters decorating the walls, and a curved bar counter fashioned out of exposed wood and steel. Pets are welcome at the outdoor seating area as well. But the highlight is arguably the fully stocked fridge by the entrance, dubbed 'Bottle Shop!!!', with a well-curated selection of natural wines and canned coffee by Maxi Coffee Bar. You wouldn't be surprised to find regulars dropping by to pick up a bottle on the way home.
At a glance, it's hard to pinpoint a specific cuisine on the menu, which should tell you something about the fluid, borderless way things are run at Wildcard. Chef Angelo Maniam, who previously cooked at Offtrack, can be credited for most of this transformation, and offers his own personal take on 'soul food'. Old-timers will recognise signatures like the prawn sando ($25), half French chicken ($36) and sticky toffee pudding ($15) still on the menu, though the iconic oxtail doughnut has since been upgraded to a croquette ($8).
You'll also find sprinkles of Indian influences here and there, credit to Chef Angelo's part-Indian heritage – think curry-tinged butters, raita-based sauces, chaat and the like. The chewy, Mission spice-dusted pretzels ($10) are a staple at Wildcard, and Chef Angelo serves them with an addictive pollichattu butter, which we polish off easily. There's also the fried broccolini ($17), which, though slightly heavy-handed on the salt, pairs well with a sharp green chilli raita dip. A scallop-stuffed pani puri cleanses the palate ($6) with a mild coconut and ginger-lime dressing.
When it comes to the fried Jerusalem artichokes ($21), looks are not everything. These fleshy wedges buried under cheese and pickled onions are not to be overlooked. They are lightly crisped on the edges but dense and starchy in the middle – almost similar to confit potatoes, but with the distinct sweetness of artichoke. A bright tahini dressing ties it all together.
The restaurant is also debuting a special dish for the upcoming festive season: berry-glazed duck breast with Sichuan potato salad, coin roti prata and a scallion-brie scone. This will only be available till the end of the month. We recommend ordering a side of charcoal-grilled carrots ($24), which sit atop a bed of five-spiced cream and carry a faint hint of cinnamon reminiscent of Christmas.
Though Wildcard is slowly shedding its image as a natural wine bar in favour of a more well-rounded concept, the team is still very much equipped to recommend drink pairings based on your menu picks. Find yourself sipping on anything from a glass of bubbly or crisp natural white to go with seafood, a cheeky orange wine to coax out the sweetness of the artichokes, or a bold, juicy red to go with richer red meats. The joint also offers a selection of negronis by London's Bar Termini, with four flavours available either by the bottle or by the glass.
Wildcard is the kind of neighbourhood spot that you can rock up to unannounced and properly unwind at after a long work day. But if you want to experience the space at its liveliest, pop by on Thursday nights after 8.30pm for live jazz performances, or on Sundays for its bi-weekly 'test kitchen', featuring collaborations with chefs from Singapore and around the region.
Wildcard is located at 405 Havelock Rd, Furama RiverFront, #01-03, Singapore 169633. Opening hours are 4pm to midnight from Wednesday to Friday and 11am to midnight on weekends.
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Paraphrase: A tiny 8-seater in Fortune Centre with great grilled dishes and even better sake