Bar Julius

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In Australia, hotel bars usually lack cool-factor. Even when they have a lot going for them, they tend to be overlooked by locals. Bar Julius has bucked the trend, despite being next to the lobby of The Eve Hotel, and the place where hotel guests have breakfast. I guess part of it is that the Wunderlich Lane creators have done a good job of making the precinct and all its venues (Lottie, Island Radio, Olympus) feel like a neighbourhood, as opposed to part of the hotel. The other part of it is that Bar Julius is really very fun and cool. 

The vibe 

I’ve now been to Bar Julius for breakfast, lunch, dinner and after-dinner drinks – and that’s the point. Bar Julius is open daily from 7am to midnight, and it was designed as a place you’d happily spend time in at any time of day. The key design feature is the unusual arched ceilings – three archways that run the length of the room. They’re coloured a mix of yellows, pinks and peach splodges that look like watercolour paint and textural materials, even though it’s actually a flat graphic. To complement the arches, there are big, circular windows onto Baptist Street that let the day’s changing light from outside cast different vibes on the room as the day evolves.

Loads of playful, framed pictures line the walls – an elegant hodge-podge of colourful art, from an iconic photo of Grace Jones to mid-century and abstract prints. Modern Sydney venues don't tend to be this plauful and eclectic, but they’ve pulled it off, thanks to the handiwork of Sydney-based architects, SJB. In the evening, the place is moodily lit, and mushroomy lamps that complement the Modernist furniture are dotted around the room. There are also different areas and nooks through the bar – so it’s a perfect place for an intimate catch-up.

The food

This evening we’re here for dinner and drinks, so we start with a dish called ‘fish + chip’ – which is not exactly what it sounds like. It’s an $11 starter: two chunky hand-cut chips that have been triple-fried so they’re crunchy and golden but fluffy inside; they’re topped with a salty smoked salmon tarama, little roe balls that shine in the lamp light, plus a sprinkling of pickled onion and fresh dill. It’s a sophisticated take on the flavours of fish and chips – a salty, fatty, eat-in-three-bites bar snack.  

We have to follow with the Bar Julius Burger ($26). Liquid and Larder, who are responsible for The Eve Hotel’s food and bev offerings, are well known for their burgers – you’ve probably heard of ‘the Gidley burger’, AKA one of the world’s best. Of course, Bar Julius doesn’t want to compete with that acclaimed number (it’s a double beef patty, sharp cheddar, pickles and a tangy secret sauce), so this one is completely different. It’s a creamy burger, thanks to a celeriac remoulade (like a fancy slaw), a Dijonnaise, and a slide of melted Swiss cheese. The patty is thick, with a blush of pink inside and nicely charred on the outside. It’s drippy, with freshness from the celeriac and a kick thanks to the mustard, and it deserves its own place in Sydney’s Burger Hall of Fame. It’s on their ‘all day’ menu – so you can order it whenever you like. My friend and I share the burger, with sides of charred broccolini ($17) topped with a salty anchovy butter, and crispy baked potatoes that are served with a ramekin of smoky garlic aioli ($11).  

Bar Julius is also a great place for brekkie or brunch – they do the usual eggs offerings, mushrooms on toast and a B&E roll, but also some more unusual entries, like a brûlée cinnamon porridge, and a cardamom and fennel granola.

The drinks

Being a bar first and foremost, they have an extensive wine list that showcases local producers alongside European must-haves. They champion small, family-owned wineries that prioritise sustainable practices. I particularly enjoy a glass of their 2022 Garagiste ‘Merricks Cuvée de Coeur’ Blanc de Noirs ($21) from the Mornington Peninsula – it’s crisp yet lively, with a red-fruit perfume and citrusy zest. But their cocktails – classics with a twist – are where the Bar Julius team truly shine. They claim to have ‘the world’s best Mimosa’, so of course I have to try it. It’s called the Crystal Mimosa ($25), because while your ordinary Mimosa is orange in colour, this one is clarified so it’s crystal clear – and the orange flavour comes from a tableside spray of orange essence. It contains Usher Tinkler Prosecco (one of our fave NSW drops), Ketel One vodka, Muyu Chinotto Nero and a touch of vanilla. They’ve turned the Mimosa from a breakfast cocktail into a sophisticated drink you’d happily sip on any time of day or night.   

At happy hour (a literal hour from 4-5pm), you can get some great deals, including their Ruby Negroni for $12, a Tanqueray and tonic for $6, a glass of house wine for $10, and a Philter beer for $8. Plus $2 Sydney rock oysters.

Time Out tip

Don’t stop at Bar Julius – Wunderlich Lane is a whole precinct of food and drink wonders. Head up to rooftop bar Lottie for Mexican-style snacks, to Island Radio for a laid-back South Asian meal under moon-like lights, and Olympus for a big fat Greek feast. As mentioned, Bar Julius will be ready whenever you are – for befores or afters.  

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