Sauna Hokuo

Hokuo is a capsule hotel and sauna that’s been in operation since 1992. The aesthetic is peak bubble-era fever dream: space-age capsules and brutalist architecture, everything a bit worn and bereft of colour. Nevertheless, the place remains one of Tokyo’s sauna meccas. Whether you’re booking a stay or just a sauna session, both require a reservation through the link provided. (The sauna is available without a reservation between 10pm and 10am.)

Check in at the front desk on the sixth floor, then take your time exploring the two saunas, cold bath, indoor bath, and the outdoor bath on the rooftop. Afterwards, change into their provided robe and head down to the relaxation room for a snooze, or grab a bite at the cafeteria.

The food menu is lengthy, offering everything from ramen to tonkatsu – but you’ll hear everyone around you ordering the same thing: their signature curry, which toggles between sweet and spicy, packed with braised beef that practically melts into the sauce.

Hokuo is no glamorous spa, but it’s strangely homey. If you can look past the grime, it’s a fun blast to the past.