Rogue 24

This is dinner as performance art: an open kitchen in the center of the dining room; 16-course "progression" or 24-course "journey" tasting menus that unfold over three or more hours. Courses might consist of a single, artfully constructed bite—a sliver of iberico lomo over a chunk of watermelon, say, or a small ball of dough filled with "liquid chicken". The kitchen staff assemble some dishes using tweezers and medicine droppers. It’s a meal full of surprises, and for serious foodies, an entertaining show.