Bencoolen might have been our pick for the coolest neighbourhood in Singapore this year, but Queenstown sits pretty high on our list too. The area is chock-full of nostalgia, home to some of the oldest housing estates in the country and Singapore's first full-time library. One of the heritage buildings in the vicinity is the former Commonwealth Avenue Wet Market & Food Centre, built in 1956. It was gazetted for conservation by the Urban Redevelopment Authority in 2013. And in 2023, it was converted to Margaret Market, a charming two-storey air-conditioned food hall and community hub celebrating homegrown brands.
The parabolic vaulted roof structure of the building remains intact, now with light fixtures hanging from the high ceilings. On the first floor, there are around 12 food stalls selling everything from pizzas to sushi rolls, a bar and a communal dining area, while the second floor houses health and fitness facilities like clinics and a 24-hour gym. The whole design and concept of the market is reminiscent of food halls you'd find overseas in countries like Australia. We visited on a sleepy Tuesday morning to check out the space and try out a couple of stalls – here's the full lowdown of what we loved, what we didn't, and whether we'd come back.
1. Fernando's Pizza (5/5)
It turns out that this unassuming spot in Queenstown serves some pretty solid New York-style slices. The pies at Fernando's come square-shaped, made with Caputo 00 flour at 30% hydration and fermented over 48 hours till they develop that satisfying chew. There are a whopping 21 variations on the menu, with half-and-half options available for the large size ($39). Our favourite? The tagliata di manzo ($26 for medium, $37 for large), with grilled ribeye chunks, caramelised onions, truffle cream, mushrooms, arugula and fresh figs. The pizzas come generously topped and are best enjoyed with a drizzle of hot honey, the joint's unique signature pairing. Other interesting picks include Fernando's Special ($24 for medium, $35 for large) with roasted fennel sausage and pancetta; Formaggi con burrata di parma ($43) with a mix of cheese, figs and burrata; and the Patate tartufo e carne ($24 for medium, $35 for large) with cheese, roasted potatoes, ham and truffle cream.
Stall number: #01-09
Expect to pay: From $22 for a medium-sized nine-inch pizza
2. OMG! Decadent Donuts and Brash Boys Coffee (3/5)
Stall number: #01-08
Expect to pay: From $3.50 per doughnut and $5.30 for a hot white
3. Kumi Taiwanese Eatery (3/5)
Find everything from Taiwanese rice bowls, snacks and bubble tea to sushi rolls at Kumi. The stall is run by the same guys behind Rollie Ollie, a sushi and poké bowl concept at i12 in Katong. We tucked into the minced pork rice ($9.50), which is generously loaded with fatty braised pork belly, rendered down into small, melt-in-your-mouth chunks. The sauce seeps nicely into the rice, and the bowl comes with a braised egg and pickled cucumbers to cut through the richness. While it is quite a hefty portion, almost $10 for lu rou fan does feel pricey. There are six other rice bowls to choose from with toppings like mentaiko salmon ($12.90) and chicken chop ($11.90), or mantou stuffed with pork belly ($11.50) and salted egg soft shell crab ($14). It's the luck of the draw with the sushi rolls – the nine combinations on the menu from Rollie Ollie include spicy tuna ($8.50) and avocado and surimi ($7.50), but we found the rice to be much too clumpy.
Stall number: #01-01A
Expect to pay: From $9.50 for a rice bowl
4. Creamier Handcrafted Ice Cream and Coffee (4/5)
This homegrown ice cream brand needs no introduction. Its Margaret Market outlet, which just opened last August, is also its very first kiosk concept. Customers are encouraged to enjoy their ice cream and waffles at the communal dining area or take home the brand's frozen waffles and pints. Pick from classics like roasted pistachio and summer strawberries, or switch things up with flavours like sea salt gula melaka and Hokey Pokey – a combination of Madagascan vanilla, French cream, rich yolks and homemade honeycomb crumbs coated with white chocolate. Pup cups (pet-friendly ice cream) are also available in flavours like apples and peas. While there are no outlet-exclusive flavours, it's always great to have a reliable ice cream spot around the hood.
Stall number: #01-5A
Expect to pay: From $5.90 per scoop
5. Kou Kou Xiang 口口香鸡汤饭 (2/5)
You'd be hard-pressed to find another dish as bland as this, save for plain porridge, of course. Nevertheless, we can see how Kou Kou Xiang's chicken rice soup might appeal on some specific occasions: a rainy day, when you're down and out with a cold, or if you have an elderly loved one who can't take heavy flavours. The signature agarious mushrooms chicken soup is packed with healthy Chinese herbs like Cordyceps flowers, slivers of shredded chicken and rice in a clean, warm chicken broth. It's possible to switch out the rice for other carbs like ramen, rice noodles or the thinner meesua. For a more enjoyable experience, we highly recommend customising the broth with the sauces and condiments available at the counter, which include chilled beancurd noodle salad, soybean pops and bittergourd.
Stall number: #01-06
Expect to pay: From $8.80 for a bowl of chicken rice soup
Other stalls to check out
Honestly, we're still mourning the loss of Wawa Lala Beehoon, which closed about five months ago (its current last stronghold is at Fortune Centre). Meanwhile, for your Korean food fix, you can visit Daebak Korean Restaurant at Margaret Market for staples like sundubu jjigae (soft tofu stew), kimchi and chive pancakes, kimchi fried rice and more. There's also Bowen's Café for Western classics like chicken chop, fish and chips and the like, or Hua Jie Dumpling for Chinese dumplings and noodle soup. Margie The Market Bar seems like a laidback spot for a post-work pint or happy hour pours, with its open-concept design and sweeping bar counter. Pop by for live music from Thursday to Saturday evenings, and keep an eye out for occasional events like craft beer discovery sessions.
The verdict
As far as food courts go, Margaret Market is no doubt a cut above the rest, especially with its unique design, interesting curation of stalls and communal dining area. Unfortunately, we were met with more misses than hits on our visit, save for one small standout. If you're in the area, we recommend checking out Margaret Drive Hawker Centre just next door instead. Stalls like Tong Kee Chicken Rice, Queenstown Lontong, No. 1 Western Food, Hakka Thunder Tea Rice, and Tanglin Halt Ru Yi Yuan Vegetarian seem to be the popular ones among residents nearby. That said, if you're not craving hawker fare, Margaret Market is a reasonable pick. But otherwise, we wouldn't say it's worth making a special trip down.
Note: Since there aren't any tray return stations, there can be flies around the common dining area. Do your part to return trays to their designated stalls and make the dining experience more comfortable for everyone visiting.
Margaret Market is open daily from 7.30am to 10pm or 11pm at 38 Margaret Dr, Singapore 141038. Find out more about Margaret Market and view the full list of stalls here.
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